From The San Francisco Examiner, June 30, 2000

Seamstress is a Bride's Best Friend
by Elaine Larsen

A bride-to-be has no better friend than Diana Ackerman, a Redwood City seamstress who helps breathe new life into vintage wedding gowns. Brides who choose Diana can rest assured they will be beautiful from head to toe walking down the aisle on their wedding day.

Ackerman and her sister, Kaiya Storm, a bridal jewlery maker, have been collaborating for years - outfitting prospective brides in everything from custom-altered dresses to hand-restored veils.

Ackerman comes by her flair for sewing naturally as a third-generation tailor. Her grandfather worked in a sewing factory in his native Hungary. At home, he sewed all the family's clothing and comforters on an old-fashioned treadle sewing machine. His daughter, Ackerman's mother, followed suit as a seamstress, immigrating with the family to America at the age of 18. "I can remember my grandfather feeling material between his fingers with great appreciation. My mother had me stringing buttons as a little girl, and my grandmother taught me Hungarian-style embroidery, and also knitting and crocheting. Sewing is definitely in my blood," she said.

Although she started making girlfriends' wedding dresses in high school, 12 years ago Ackerman began specializing in vintage dress restoration, wedding gown alterations, and custom handmade veils.

These days, she does about 70 restorations a year, working closely with the bride for up to six months before the wedding date. "I can take one look at a woman and know what size she is and what decade of gown is best. I get a feel for someone's personality, not from what they're wearing, but from their body posture."

Before trying on any of the dresses, Ackerman has her clients put on a bias-cut slip, an old-style garment, cut horizontal on the cross-grain, as opposed to today's horizontal or vertical counterpart.

"This slip is flattering to every figure. It just hits the bustline and hips and drops."

As her clients try on dresses, Ackerman said she gets "pictures" in her head. "I'm very visual, and I just see what the dress needs," she explained. They discuss desired neckline, sleeve and train length, making decisions often based on where and when the wedding will be held, and whether it will be indoors or outdoors.

Ackerman typically can work wonders with leftover pieces of train. "With these vintage dresses the fabric is not made anymore, so it's logical to use excess parts of the train for the alterations." Once the dress has been custom fit - Ackerman has been known to work miracles in expanding a tiny dress to fit today's more modern, ample figure - then it's time to add decorative touches.

The royal treatment.

"I'm the embellishment queen," said Ackerman, who relies on a variety of all-natural quality products such as Austrian crystals, fresh-water pearls, French sequins, Czechoslovakian glass beads, and a variety of ribbons, pearls, and appliques.

Accessorizing comes next, complete with headpiece, veil and jewelry. "The veil is the bride's crowning glory - whether it's a tiara with a veil, flowers or a hat. It's a sign of distinction and showcases the bride."

Ackerman's sister, Kaiya Storm, is a hair and jewelry expert. She creates one-of-a-kind jewelry using semiprecious stones like garnets, rubies, amethysts and peridots. Storm also creates beautiful pieces from Swarowski hand-cut crystal and freshwater pearls and creates jewelry specially made as gifts for bridesmaids, and creates custom pieces for sale privately.

Ackerman's other specialties are handmade veils and lace repair, which both involve intricate sewing techniques. "Veils have come full circle. Many people are wearing them like they did 100 years ago. A lot of people want the "blusher," that part of the veil covering the bride's face the groom pulls up for the kiss at the conclusion of the vows. People have a renewed appreciation for tradition," said Ackerman.

'Only two rules'

"I have only two rules: One, that the bride communicate with me. After all, this is her dress and her day. And two, that we have a lot of fun. I let every woman know she will be the most beautiful bride in the world. I tell them, let's make some happy memories." Having a gown custom altered ensures the perfect fit, she says. "I let out a gown as much as possible and then taper it to a woman's body. I try to begin working with them months ahead of the wedding so we can have several fittings and there's no pressure. I'm a stickler for detail. The gown has to be as good on the inside as the outside."

Although fashion trends come and go, Ackerman says the 1930's slinky, tight-fitted, sleeveless gown has been popular for the last few seasons. Another look making a comeback is the 1950's cinched waist, full-skirt look. "But there has always been an appreciation for the Victorian bride, the perfectly romantic gown," she said.

While first- and second-time weddings are the mainstay of her business, Ackerman also alters gowns for other occasions. One of her recent clients is a woman in her 50s who saved up her money to buy a Victorian gown for her 30th wedding anniversary. She has also made vestments and christening gowns, although weddings are her favorite. "I'm very spiritual about what I do and feel it's a blessing. I also believe in tradition. If I prick myself with a needle I believe the couple will have a great wedding and marriage. I believe it's a Hungarian tailor's tradition and means there are many blessings ahead.

"I have had brides say to me they can feel the energy in the clothing and the beautiful love that was shared before. They feel it's a real honor to wear a piece that originally was made for another bride at another time. It's a very romantic thing and can be very emotional and spiritual," she said.

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